I wish I could properly account for what it felt like to reach the top of the mountain. I would have to begin by saying that it didn’t feel good when I saw the triangular pillar that sat at the very peak. I was ecstatic when I touched it with my own hands. I didn’t suddenly feel as though I had accomplished anything exceptional, or that I could now somehow do anything that I set my mind to.
To be honest, I just wanted to go back down the mountain as quickly as possible.
Two months earlier I decided I was going to climb Jebel Toubkal in Morocco’s High Atlas valley. I decided this in an instant, feeling a sudden urge to prove myself capable of taking on a challenge and seeing it through. Maybe it was because I felt kind of small in my new job, isolated living in a small town, and diminished after years of exciting adventure and thrilling challenges which were suddenly replaced with routine. Whatever it may be that made me jump to the sudden conclusion that I would summit the tallest mountain in North Africa, I took the challenge seriously and began preparing for it as best as I could.
I started hitting the gym 5 days a week. I had been running all summer and had slowed down a bit with the snow. I took up running on the treadmill, running for up to 2 hours without stopping, throwing in high intensity intervals at super high inclines and very fast speeds. For the first time in my life I began lifting weights, dumbbells at first, then bench and barbell lifts. I studied different varieties of lifting styles, and I got quite strong over the course of two months. I kept myself motivated by telling myself ‘if I can’t run this next 5k I can forget about climbing a mountain’, and that’s all it took. I ran on, I lifted heavier, and I kept my mind on my goal.
At 4100 meters above sea level, my breath was short, my heart beat 3 times for each half-step. My head felt dizzy and my legs confused. I tried to pull out my camera to take the pictures that I needed to prove that I had made it to the top, but I couldn’t bare the thought of removing my gloves that were hardened by the frosted winds. In the back of my mind was the success of having made it, at its forefront was the reminder that I still had to walk back down, and then back down the valley towards the village some 6 hours away from the basecamp.
I wanted to be known as someone how climbs mountains during his holidays. ‘What did you do on Xmas Eve?’ they’d ask, ‘I was in Morocco and I was trudging my way up the side of a very tall mountain’ I’d respond. It sounded good in my mind, real good. However, upon my arrival in Casablanca a new question emerged, not to do with the climb or of what someone might think of me upon telling them of my adventure, but in regards to what I could tell myself. ‘What am I doing here?’ I asked over and over as I walked around the city in a jet-lagged daze. Day two, during the train ride to Marrakech where I’d depart from the High Atlas region, the question kept creeping up, ‘Why did I come here?’ and I couldn’t sum up an answer. ‘To climb a mountain and test myself,’ sure, but why?
The trek to the basecamp began from a small little village called Imlil, located within a valley roughly 1 hour and 30 minutes drive from Marrakech. My guide, Ibrahim, patiently led the way up winding trails through rock and dirt, then further up to snow and dirt, and then just snow, and ice. My breathing became quicker after the 3 hour mark, not only due to the altitude, but to the difficultly of treading the path (or lack thereof). I could feel my heart compensate for the diminishing supply of oxygen that my deep breaths could no longer provide it with. 5 hours into the trek my legs would occasionally wobble, I would lose my step, trip on a rock, or just have to stop to gather myself. Three or four quick breaths followed by a slow, deep inhale… okay, ready to continue upward.
About 6 and a half hours is what it took to get to the basecamp. The Toubkal Refuge, as it is known, is a surprisingly well-equipped little facility which provides passing trekkers with a kitchen, dinning and sitting area, rooms with bunks, functional toilets and even a hot shower (for an added price). How they got electricity, hot water, and functional sewage so high up in the mountain area is beyond me. After dinner I decided to go lay down, it was roughly 8pm. I figured I could use the sleep, considering how I felt, and 5am the following day would come quick. I lay in my massive sleeping bag, boiling with heat and trying to vent as best as I could. The altitude kept me awake, crushing my lungs and making my head dizzy. Sudden a pain started in my lower back, to the left. I felt that pain before, it was my kidney, or right thereabout. The last time I felt that pain was in India when I had developed the Godzilla of kidney stones. ‘Not now, please, not now’. The dull ache came and went depending on how I turned my back, and suddenly I got scared. ‘What if this pain follows me up this mountain tomorrow? Is it another kidney stone, and will I have to pass it half-way up? Will my dick and fingers freeze off while wait in pain for a rock to be pissed out? Fuck me. Maybe it’s not a stone, maybe it’s appendicitis. Is my appendix going to burst half-way up the mountain? What side is my appendix on anyways?’ My legs hurt and were sore from the hike up, my lungs felt like I had a small platoon of gorillas sitting on my chest, my head spun about as if on a carnival ride, my sleeping bag felt like a sauna, and suddenly my kidney was reminding me of the surgeries I had in Delhi to remove a very serious stone the size of the titanic. 9 pm, 10 pm, 11pm…. 5am.
Darkness. I switched on my headlamp and tried not to wake the two Spaniards who were snoring. Christine and Trong (yes that was his name, and he looked as a man named Trong should), two Norwegians, were quietly getting ready as well. They were to join me on the way up with my guide and another one who had accompanied them up to the refuge. Two pairs of socks, long-johns, ski pants, a shirt, a fleece jacket, a North-Face jacket, gloves, a muffler, and a hat. Boots, followed by crampons (spikey overlays that you attach to your shoes for snow and ice walking). A quick omelet and some juice, and we were off.
The thoughts that had kept me up all night were still fresh in my mind as we began the walk in the complete darkness of early morning. My headlamp illuminated the rocks and snow and my guide. Almost immediately each step felt like 10, each breath was forced, my muscles were not recovered, my lungs not yet fully adapted. My head felt better, and I knew that I wasn’t going to be ill. I hoped, actually, that I would not be ill. This was it, each step into the snow, each scrape of metal crampon across icy rock, this was what I came for. ‘What am I doing here?’
It wasn’t the time to question the will that had motivated me up until then. I was there, the moment had come, and there was only one direction: up. And up was steep, very steep. I pushed out those thoughts of turning around and going back to bed, but they kept pushing their way in. ‘You can turn around, you can go back, it’s okay, no one needs to know you didn’t make it, and you don’t have to be ashamed. You are in pain, your legs hurt, can’t you hear them complaining? You can barely breath, or see a thing. Look, you almost slipped and fell, your back hurts from your bag, you are thirsty, and you still have 3 hours of this up, and you have to come all the way back.’ Shut up, and walk.
One step, two step. One step, shit, wait. Okay, breath. One step, two step. One step, two step. Look up, the sun is starting to rise, we’ve come a long way, I can’t see the Refuge any more, but there’s still a really long way to go. The Norwegians are super humans, leading the way at a crazy pace. I wish I was 6 foot 5 like them, that’d make this easier. Shut up, walk.
It’s cold, but I am sweating. My fingers are warm, my toes are warm (despite being restricted by the crampons that are fastened tightly around my boots, limiting their flexibility. At least those aren’t cold, that’s a good thing. ‘But you’re tired, and your legs feel like they are carrying the weight of the entire world, you lungs can barely hold a breath, you’re not moving more than a few steps at a time and you can barely keep yourself from falling and giving in. You can turn around, it’s okay if you do.’
Ibrahim follows me very closely, keeping an eye on my progress and asking if I’m okay every 10 minutes or so. 1 hour in we take a quick break, one of many that we’ve taken already. I am sitting with my crampons digging into the ice on the side of the mountain, which slopes directly down at a near 75 degree angle. I ask Ibrahim if most people make it to the top. He says no, he says that most turn around, or never even start once they’ve reached the Refuge. He says that they usually get too tired, or get altitude sickness and are forced to turn around. I am in pain, I am miserable, and I smile and tell him that that’s not going to be me, not today. We get up, and continue zig-zagging up the side of Mount Toubkal’s snowy peak.
My camera remains in my bag. I had planned on taking lots of photos and videos, leisurely snapping away as the sun revealed the epic beauty of this incredible landscape. Nope. I could barely focus on putting one foot in front of the other, much less handle a DSLR camera at 3000+ meters. That required clear thoughts and an ability to pay attention to my surroundings in the distance, to spot the best angles for shots, to adjust my aperture and exposure just right to get the best blue from the morning sky and the warmest orange from the sun. Perhaps the clearest thought that I could muster while climbing was on the connection my own personal willpower had over my body. I didn’t give a damn about the scenic view, I could barely see it. Not because I was blinded by gusts of snowy winds and ice pellets, or because of the lack of direct light. I just wasn’t seeing anything beyond the next 5 steps and I was thinking very little beyond getting through them. I had enough of a time fighting off the temptation to give in and turn around. Taking pictures to show others was very much at the back of my mind, and the camera just became a weight that made me bitter.
When Ibrahim announced that there was only half-hour left, I could feel the joy in his voice. Not for him, but for me, for having made it so far. 30 minutes didn’t mean anything to me, there might as well have been another mountain to climb upon reaching the top (technically there was another mountain to descend, either way). I am positive that he did not think I would make it, and now that we were so close he was impressed and genuinely happy that I had pushed through. I didn’t feel impressed, nor happy. 30 minutes left and I could barely take 3 steps without stopping. And I stopped often. In those 20 seconds where I’d stand still, hunched over, clenching my knees, I would clear my mind, breath quickly 3 or 4 times, then a deep breath… okay. Onward. Then I would stop again a few steps later, repeat, and continue.
15 minutes left. The sun finally fell on us, it felt warm and good on my face. My cheeks were frozen from the bitter winds. The mountain, Toubkal, was not forgiving or welcoming. Ancient and worn, I can swear that I felt the crotchety presence of an angry old man which personified its winds and ice. I thought that I could befriend the mountain, take a picture with it, make it to the top, celebrate, and move on with my life. This mountain wanted none of that. It did not like that I had not paid proper respect, and it tested my determination and will at every turn. the mountain makes me reconsider my future career as a mountaineer.
10 minutes left. Ibrahim is urging me on. We are so close, we will see the summit after 10 minutes, and then it’s a short 10 minute climb to the top. 10 minutes seems like eternity. I force my legs to move like a puppet master who is losing control of its strings. It is not a pretty walk, it is clumsy and amateurish. ‘I am not an mountaineer, I am not an athlete, I am not cut out for this kind of challenge,’ and these thoughts begin to weight heavily, they cloud my focus, they drain what strength and determination I have left. My mind had not given up, but my body was beginning to win the battle against my will. I look behind me at Ibrahim, he smiles, and I’m not even sure if I smile back. I’m not sure of much. The altitude has a firm hold on my ability to rationalize, my bones and the muscle that wrap around them are coming loose at their seams. I stop, three quick breaths, and the wind suddenly pushes with a strong gust. Not down, and not with ice pellets to my face, but the wind is pushing me upward. It catches in my jacket and insists I continue.
The crotchety old man raises an eyebrow and asks me ‘why are you here?’ and I say ‘I don’t know, but I am going to find out.’
I simply was not in any state of mind upon reaching the top. Elation cannot come close to describing the feeling, it was more of a state of confusion, a kind of shock. Yes, I had made it against all the obstacles, yes I had summited my first real mountain. But those were not the thoughts that drove me in that moment. I looked to the world far below where I stood. There was not a person taller than me in all of the North of Africa, except for those two Norwegians, but I didn’t feel so bad about not being 6’5 anymore. My guide hugged me and congratulated me on the accomplishment. High fives from the Norwegians who began eating chocolate and singing songs as if they’d just had a nice morning walk through a flowery meadow. And a moment of reflection where I looked at the face of the mountain and gave it my full respect. I think it gave me a little bit in return.
Of course, the walk down was gruesome, but much faster. 2 hours, roughly, to descend. The joints in my knees felt like jelly by the time I reached the refuge. I had 1 hour to pack my stuff and walk the extra 6 hours back to Imlil. 6 hours of dazed reflection upon what I had just accomplished. I was more preoccupied with the pain in my knees and legs to properly think about anything, if I were to be honest. There was nothing easy about the entire thing, from the moment I began the trek up to the refuge to the moment I returned to town each step got harder and harder, every moment led to a greater challenge than that which came before it. It was only when I saw in the tub quietly washing by beaten body in hot water did I feel as though I could start properly reflecting on it all.
I sat down in the bed in my inn after a warm supper, freshly washed, and feeling slightly relaxed after a short nap taken not long after arriving. I stared at the screen and tried writing down my thoughts on what I had just experienced. My mind was about as functional as my the rest of my body, perhaps exhausted from having to carry the weight of my will. After a few false starts at a first paragraph I settled on being contented with stopping at writing the title, which somehow still managed to encompass the entire experience for me in that moment: The Mountain.